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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.